history

As early as 1846, emigrants’ 
wagons rolled through Surprise 
Valley enroute to Oregon and the \
lower valleys of California. 
Lindsay Applegate and Levi 
Scott branched off with their
party from the California Trail at 
what later became known as 
Lassen’s Meadow (now named Rye Patch Reservoir and located near Imlay, Nevada). They followed a northwestern direction 
                                                across the Black Rock Desert                                                                     
                                                and through High Rock and     
                                                Forty Nine canyons to enter
                                                California near its extreme         
                                                northeastern corner, 29 miles     
                                                southwest of today’s         
                                                California-Oregon border.
                                                
Their trail traversed Surprise Valley and went on to cross the Warner Mountains at Fandango 
Pass on their journey to the 
Willamette Valley, the principle 
settlement in the Oregon 
Territory. 

The trail this party laid out 
became known by various names, 
including the “South Oregon Emigrant Road”, the “Old South Road”, or the “Lassen Applegate Trail”.

                                                    The importance of the tall,         
                                                    waving grass of this valley         
                                                    was intensified as most of 
                                                    the wagon trains arrived in     
                                                    late summer and early fall 
                                                    when bunch grass along the
                                                    route had lost much of its 
                                                    nutrient value. Trains would
stop long enough in the valley to harvest some wild hay to carry
over the dry parts of the 
trail ahead.

Few early pioneers stayed                                                                     on, though Mrs. I. Grove                                                     wrote, “They often spoke                                                         of this unnamed, unknown                                                 valley, little thinking that in                                                     a few years some would                                                     return…to make their homes here.”
From 1848 through the mid-1860s, the route was much traveled, including by an influx of fortune-seekers drawn by the 1849 California Gold Rush. Others came after severe drought hit the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys in 1864, causing livestock owners to seek higher pastures. Others had left their border states rather than join in the Civil War, while former residents of Nevada’s once-booming town of Virginia City migrated to surrounding areas and began to build new towns.
Local legend has attributed the name of the valley to early emigrants, though careful research has shown the name wasn’t actually applied until the early 1860s.  The August 22, 1863 edition of the Humboldt Register out of Unionville, Nevada Territory says,
“Surveyor General Houghton and his party appear to have discovered one of the most inviting valleys to be found in the state. The party named it “Surprise Valley”, which is appropriate as the men must have been greatly astonished to find such a valley in that region. It is 50 miles long and from 8 to 15 miles broad and contains three lakes. Grass, clover and wild rye were found growing luxuriantly. Fine timber in abundance covered the mountains which bounded on the west.”
The naming of the valley in the 1860s, rather than earlier, is substantiated by the fact that no records of travel or Army reports concerned with the area have been found using the name “Surprise”.
In one early account, Surprise Valley is said to have been known by the local Indians as “Kibeningnaredols” which means “Valley of the Long Mountains”.
The essay above was excerpted by permission from “Surprise Valley: A Collective History of Its Early Years of Settlement” by Tami Grove